Friday, March 02, 2007

Early Spring Visitor


In contrast to the snow, this shot gives you an idea of just how mild the winter has been here in The Netherlands. Not only are the crocus, snowdrops, and daffodils in bloom, we were surprised to catch this big guy gorging himself on pollen.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Holland Snow



It has only snowed twice here this winter. The first time was a dusting that melted quickly. Last week the snow actually stayed around for a day. Have to say that it was beautiful, but we are glad we haven't had the bitter cold that the midwest US has experienced lately.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Holidays 2006

Our first Christmas holiday in The Netherlands could have been lonely but ended up being anything but. Our friend Jon came to visit, we met up with our nephew Tommy, and we had a visit from Flat Stanley!

Jon came in on the 14th and stayed in Amsterdam for the weekend. We spent Sunday exploring Amsterdam; on Monday we picked him up and Tuesday we were on the road. We had decided to visit some Christmas markets in France and Germany. Along the way we stopped in Bouillon, Belgium to check out the 1000-year old Bouillon castle.


Pictured (click to enlarge); View from Bouillon castle, Flat Stanley on the torture rack (this pic didn't make it into his report for obvious reasons!)

Our next stop was Strasbourg (check out the archives - previous post for Alsace-Lorraine). The highlight was our quick daytrip to three favorite wineries, the result of which was a crowded back seat. The food in Alsace is great but gets old fast -- how much sauerkraut, sausage, and onion tart can you eat? Also, let's just say that the food can be a little "rustic" -- not quite to the taste of adventurous but sometimes squeamish Americans. The recommendations from the owner of one particularly authentic cafe were as follows:
Baeckeoffe de joues (joues de boeuf, pied de veau) Translation: casserole of cheeks (ox cheeks, calf's foot)
TĂȘte de veau ravigote Translation: Calf's head (an Alsatian specialty ... yum!)

Furthermore, a special not on the menu was lovingly translated by the owner as "Bambi." Now, we ended up having a nice meal (Jon & Rich: chicken, Rochelle: sauerkraut & sausage), and the owner couldn't have been nicer, but it was all we could do not to totally crack up as we ordered.

Pictured: shopping street at night, Strasbourg cathedral

On to Germany: we stayed in Koblenz so that we could visit the Marksburg castle. We just made the last tour after a panicked hike from the lower parking lot to the visitor entrance. It was just the three of us plus our guide, who conducted the tour in english for us. The castle sits high above the Rhine river and is also very old – it was started in the 1200s, and during the 1800s it was actually used as a prison.

The next day we drove to Munster but made two stops. First, we visited the beautiful Romanesque abbey of Maria Laach, located on the shore of a volcanic lake. Midday we visited Koln (Cologne). The cathedral is magnificent and we visited one of three markets there, sampling the gluhwein & bratwurst.


Pictured: Marksburg castle, Maria Laach, Kolner Dom

Munster has rebuilt its center nicely and although beautiful the streets have a strange sameness (and being northern the buildings look very Dutch). The market was fun, we tried some gluhwein with other liqueurs added in (rum & amaretto) and the market was even more fun. We went to a bar after dinner -- sitting at the bar, the bartenders were very nice about putting up with Rich's very bad attempts at German.

For those of you who haven't been to northern Germany or the Netherlands, "normal" beers here are quite small, about 10 ounces or so. If you want something closer to a pint you have to ask for it. Sometimes you get a slightly disapproving look when you order a bigger beer. While we were sitting at the bar, a waitress came up to the bar and mocked some customers, saying REALLY loud "TWO BIG BEERS PLEEZE" much to the chagrin of the bartenders, who obviously knew we were english-speaking. We decided to let them off the hook and Rich said "Oh, there must be some other Americans here." The waitress didn't skip a beat, replying "No, they're British!" We all had a good laugh and "two big beers pleeze" is now part of our vocabulary.
(ps, if you doubt the beer size story, check out expatica.com's "guide to dutch beer at www.expatica.com/actual/article.asp?subchannel_id=34&story_id=1667 )

Pictured: Munster at night

From Munster we headed back to Wassenaar (Rich was adamant that we make it back before the stores closed) for a couple of days of relaxation around Christmas. The day after we hopped on a plane to London. Although expensive, we love London, it's so diverse and has a lot to offer. We visited Harrod's for the famous after Christmas sale (never again), saw three musicals, dropped into umpteen pubs, and visited Hampton Court (Henry VIII's palace), saw mice in the underground, and so on.

Pictured: dancing at Hampton Court, another Flat Stanley picture that didn't make his report

We were lucky enough to spend a day with our nephew Tommy, who was in London with his high school marching band to perform in the New Year's Day Parade. We started the day at Starbucks (Rich has been going through withdrawals), went on the London Eye, visited the Tower of London, waited in the rain for the London Dungeon, and dropped him off at Westminster Cathedral. We had a great time and particularly liked egging him on by the tower ravens ... they looked like they were in the mood for some American food. Speaking of food, we lunched at a pub, a slightly controversial choice but a great place for some real English fish & chips.

Pictured: Tommy & Rich across the Thames from the "Eye"

We returned to Wassenaar for New Year's Eve. The tradition here is for families to buy fireworks (the real stuff). At midnight you really wouldn't believe how many fireworks are going off in all directions. The neighbors were out, so we ventured out to join them. Friendly as always, they explained that the city tried to ban fireworks around the windmill (after all, it is 300 years old and made of wood), but it was useless so they finally repealed the ban. The next day the streets are literally covered with junk -- the remnants of thousands of different fireworks, sparklers, and bottle rockets. The weather wasn't great (kind of a sleety rain) but that didn't stop the celebration.

The next day we dropped Jon at the airport and spent a quiet day recuperating, watching the Simpsons, and breaking into some of the Alsation cremant (sparkling wine) we picked up on our trip. And although we missed family & friends we had very little time to be homesick!

Saturday, January 27, 2007

Italy part III -- food and wine

It's no surprise to those who know us that a major draw of Italy is the food and wine. We had a great time exploring and trying new things. In Rome we happened to luck out one night. It was just around the time most restaurants open -- 7:30 -- and we were in an area not particularly known for good restaurants. But our guidebook listed a small, authentic restaurant (Colline Emiliane) nearby, so we popped in. There wasn't anyone else in the restaurant yet, but when we asked the owner said that he had one table left to give us. The place soon filled up, and we watched as countless people came in and were turned away. The food was great--simple and delicious--and we felt very lucky to have been the only non-reserved diners that evening.

Note the resemblance!

Another unique experience in Rome was the brunch near the Piazza del Popolo. It was warm enough (with a little help from the heaters) to sit outside, and the way the brunch worked was you filled up your plate and it was weighed. The basic charge covered a certain weight, and an extra charge was added per gram over the set weight. We did pretty good at coming in just a little over, and the wine was so good we went around the back to the small wine bar and had a couple more glasses. That was a great start to the sightseeing for the day!


Art or food?

In Florence, food is art, as we saw in many places ... meats, cheeses and bread displayed artfully and architecturally. The enotecas we lunched in offered not just ordinary meat platters but the opportunity to try four prosciutti from local pigs versus four from wild boar (Cinghiale). Cheeses are offered up with a variety of mustards and honey to highlight their flavors. Of course, this must all be enjoyed while sampling Tuscan wine varietals (such hard work!).

When in Florence, it's practically a law that meals must be followed with a cappuccino, vin santo (dessert wine) and some biscotti. Two hour lunches were, to quote Cole Porter, delightful, delicious, and de-lovely!


Art is not just for meat and cheese. These penguins were ready to march right into our mouths! These little guys were in a shop off the main square in Florence.


Statue of Bacchus on the Arno river

Florence is filled with a great selection of enotecas. The first we went to was connected to a Tuscan winery, and we had a nice waiter who helped us select from the appetizer plates, crostini and wines (Cantinetta del Verrazzano).



We found another great spot just over the river ... we stopped in for a late lunch one day and were greeted by the very friendly and enthusiastic owner. Again it was warm enough to sit outside and try the selection of local meats and cheeses (Le Volpi el'Uva). The guidebook described it as relaxed, mellow and welcoming -- a perfect description.


Another great lunch in Florence was in a deli-restaurant (Olio e Convivium, pictured above -- a bit blurry as we were trying not to use the flash). The small dining room was decorated with chalk boards of specials, walls of wine bottles, and all of the meats, cheeses, and olive oils were on display.


Pictured: Tuscan villas, view from winery

We didn't rent a car on this trip, but we wanted a chance to see some of the Tuscan countryside, so we decided on a half-day bus trip into the Chianti wine region. We were a little concerned about who would take the tour, but it turned out to be a good mix of young/old from a variety of English-speaking countries. Our destination was the Castello del Trebbio, a castle that is family owned (and lived in); they produce wine and olive oil.


Pictured: Castello del Trebbio

After a nice tour we had a wine and olive oil tasting. We sat next to a couple of American guys who were separated from the rest of their party. They were acting a little strange ... after drinking the wine one guy would say "this is fruity" and the other would say "no, I'm fruity" ... turns out they had been drinking and playing cards the night before, and this was their payment for a lost bet! We ended up running into them again a couple of days later, at the McDonald's at the train station. Guess you can take Americans out of America, but not vice-versa!

Pictured: We don't know why anyone would name a cafe for a spleen, but we really liked the americana playing on the tv!
Ciao (or Chow)!